Hurrah! There are now direct, budget flights to West Java’s capital. CHEN FEN takes a trip to report on the attractions of the city, starting with the climate
One thing struck me the moment our plane landed in Bandung, the capital of West Java in Indonesia. It was as if the city was entirely air-conditioned, with cool air that wrapped itself gently around you making it hard to reconcile this with being right smack at the equator. Bandung has its high altitude to thank for its lovely weather. Sitting over 700m above sea level, the city built by the Dutch is surrounded by mountains dotted with tea plantations.
From the air, Bandung is a warren of low houses packed cheek by jowl. On the ground, some of those houses turned out to be elegant Dutch-style homes, many with roofs of shingle made from ironwood. We caught a glimpse of these homes of the rich as we drove from the airport through the district of Chipaganti. Light twinkled from their windows in the twilight giving us a view of what the Dutch colonials of old must have seen as they strolled the quiet streets lined with graceful mahogany trees.
The face of Bandung changed as we came to its centre. It was here that those warrens seen from the air revealed themselves. What they lacked in elegance was more than made up for by the sheer energy of the street life. Tiny ramshackle street stalls were everywhere, fronting crowded buildings; many looking the worse for wear. Yet, a closer look revealed some of these old buildings housed hip shops, restaurants and clubs that would not be out of place in a big city filled with skyscrapers and shopping malls.
Shopping in Bandung is a dream if you are into cheap factory knock-offs. The factory outlets do a brisk trade in throwaway chic at prices that will make you gasp. Spend an afternoon rummaging through these huge outlets and you could come away with a new wardrobe for a hundred dollars or so. There is even a whole street dedicated to jeans if you need more denim in your life.
When you tire of shopping, it is time to head for the mountains. Gunung Tangkuban Parahu, about 40km from town, is the local natural wonder. The crater of this volcano is still steaming, sending wafts of sulphur-tinged hot air into the atmosphere. Do not expect a quiet commune with nature though. It felt like half of Bandung was there when we visited, everyone jostling for a spot by the crater’s edge just to stare at the giant gash half-filled with water and ash.
When you are done with the crater, give the souvenir stalls a once over to pick up some cheap trinkets as a reminder of your visit. Better yet, snag a tray of locally grown strawberries from the hawkers weaving their way through the crowds. Be sure to find a spot away from the vehicular traffic before you sample the tiny, sweet yet slightly tart strawberries. Carbon monoxide from the seemingly unending stream of vehicles together with sulphur from the volcanic steam can be a heady, potent mix.
Getting there: You can fly from Singapore directly to Bandung on AirAsia. The budget airline is the only carrier with daily flights from Changi Airport and back. On top of this, it will expand it routes to include the Malaysian destinations of Penang and Langkawi starting June 1. Log on to www.airasia.com for more information.
Moving around: Locals rely on the ANGKOT to get around town. These minivans take about 15 passengers each and are colour-coded to show the direction they are heading. The ANGKOT may be the cheapest form of transportation. But instead of trying to unravel the mysteries of the colour code, it might be easier to hop into a taxi or rent a car. If the taxi is your choice, make sure it has a meter for the fare.
Have a drink: Don’t go looking for bandung in Bandung. The pink drink made with rose syrup is nowhere to be found. Have some bandrek instead: A hot ginger drink with strips of fresh coconut in it. Also try the bajigur, a drink made with coconut milk poured over thick slices of “buah attap” from the nipah palm. Both drinks are flavoured with palm sugar.
WHAT TO EAT
The people of Bandung are proud of their “kampung” chicken, grilled or fried and eaten with a variety of sambal, some sweet, some fiery hot. They say the best is at R M Ayam Goreng Brebes located at Jalan Raja Lembang, 272, on the road to Gunung Parahu.
Be sure to give the delicious Tahu Lembang a try too. The deep fried cubes of bean curd mixed with soya milk are crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.
From TODAY, Traveller – Thursday, 21-May-2009
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