A walk in the wild

Tan Chui Hua encounters ‘Dutchmen’ monkeys, nature’s death traps and more in the outskirts of Kuching

Here’s how a typical day trip to Bako National Park goes: First, take a boat ride down Bako River to the South China Sea. Sight a saltwater crocodile along the way. Mull over the choice of forest trails, and choose one or two out of the 16. Trek through seven eco-systems with 25 types of vegetation.

Stop, take pictures of carnivorous plants. Gasp at their ingenious traps.

Count the number of Proboscis monkeys you meet on the way. Curse yourself for leaving your long range telephoto lens at home. Incidentally, these monkeys, endemic to Borneo, are cheekily nicknamed “Orang Belanda” (Dutchmen) by the locals, who believe the Caucasian’s long, red nose and ruddy complexion resemble the monkeys’ appearance.

Sweat. Pant. Reach a high point and gasp again, this time at the view of pristine white beaches and the sparkling sea. Head down for a dip before going back to the forest.

And, the best part of it — you get to experience all of this in just a few hours at the park, which is merely a couple of hours away from Changi Airport.

Bako is Sarawak’s oldest national park, gazetted in 1957 by the former British government. At 2,727 ha, it is one of Sarawak’s smallest national parks. Remarkably, it has one of the richest and most diverse flora and fauna. No time to visit all of Borneo? Go Bako. It is the best place to experience and see almost every representative type of vegetation on the island.

Located to the north of Kuching, Sarawak’s capital, Bako sits on the coastline of the South China Sea. Its list of natural and geographical assets runs long — beaches, sea stacks, limestone formations, cliffs, various types of forests and vegetation, waterfalls etc.

The one fact you need to know about Bako is that there are seven complete eco-systems in this small park. Upon alighting from the boat, you will first encounter beach vegetation. Here, it is usual to see monkeys foraging for food in the early morning or late evening. Go a little inland and find mangrove forests.

Plunge into the mixed dipterocarps forest next, where all the big trees are. Depending on where you head to, you may venture into heath forests. This is the best place to see different species of pitcher plants and other carnivorous plants. Otherwise, you may find yourself exploring grasslands or peat swamps. To get to the beaches, clamber down cliff vegetation. Take in panoramic views of the sea as you do so.

As Bako has been a national park for more than 50 years, the animals have become less timid. Sightings of wildlife are also not as challenging as in other parks since vegetation in many areas is low and sparse. Monkeys are the most easily found animals here, from macaques to Proboscis monkeys and the attractive silver leaf monkey. Beware the macaques — they do not hesitate to rob you of your food and belongings. You can also see various snakes, mammals such as the Bornean Bearded Pig and otters.

It is easy to customise your visit to the park. Sixteen trails are clearly marked and well-maintained. There are the no-sweat trails and there are the heave-and-pant ones. Some take a couple of hours to walk and some half a day or even a full day.

For initiates, the Telok Paku trail takes you through mixed dipterocarps forest and cliff vegetation. It takes about an hour and a half to walk, and ends in a small secluded beach. Proboscis monkeys are often seen on this trail. Listen for the crash of vegetation or grunting noises.

The Lintang Trail is one of the most popular in Bako, because you get to experience every eco-system Bako has to offer. This loop takes three to four hours, depending on how often you have hit the treadmill. See lots of pitcher plants along this trail.

The best trail in the park offers breathtaking views of the coast and the peninsula where the park is. But good things don’t come easily. This is a serious seven-hour trek that requires you to climb up and down hills, crossing streams and sweating buckets. You know you’ve arrived when you reach the very secluded (unsurprisingly) beach. Camp overnight and head back the same way. Or, be nice to yourself and pre-arrange a boat to pick you up at the beach. After all, it’s a park by the sea. traveller@newstoday.com.sg.

Stealthy predators

Bako’s a good place to get up close and personal with meat-eating plants. Other than various species of pitcher plants, there are the sundew and bladderwort which have a taste for trap and kill. Here’s the bluffer’s guide to act the expert.

There are many kinds of traps plants use to get their prey. Pitcher plants use a trap known as the “pitfall”. It’s easy to see where the name comes from. Pitcher plants grow cups, where rainwater and digestive juices collect. Unwary insects and even small animals fall in, drown and become food for the plants.

The sundew uses the “flypaper”, trapping its prey which walks across its sticky leaves. The bladderwort deploys an ingenious “bladder” trap. It has a bladder with a small opening. The bladder creates a vacuum inside by pumping out small ions through the process of osmosis. When an insect is near, the plant is alerted and releases its vacuum, sucking the insect in. Unfortunately, it all happens underground, so you don’t get to see the action.

Pitcher plants in Sarawak are of the “Nepenthes” genus, the pitchers of which are known as “monkey cups” because monkeys drink from them.

Many pitcher plants grow on poor, acidic soils, which is why they need animal supplements for the nitrogen intake

Sarawak tips

• Stay a night or two at the park’s chalets to explore it in depth.

• Get a guide. A good guide makes all the difference in your appreciation of Bako’s diverse flora and fauna, such as the symbiotic relationship between ant plants and their host trees.

• Watch out for saltwater crocodiles, which may be found near river mouths and mangrove swamps. And also food-snatching monkeys — so keep your food out of sight, and don’t feed them.

• Bring a hat. A good portion of Bako’s trails are in open bush and scrubs, where many of the pitcher plants thrive. Sunscreen will not suffice.

• For more information: Check the Forest Department of Sarawak’s website at www.forestry.sarawak.gov.my

Fast facts

Getting there: Bako National Park is easily accessible from Kuching, capital of Sarawak. Kuching is a short one-and-a-half hours from Singapore by plane. Regular flights by budget airlines such as Jetstar Asia have made it economical to travel there. To get to Bako, take a 45 minute bus ride to Kampung Bako. From there, take a 30 minute boat ride to the park.

Stay: Accommodation in Kuching — If you are visiting Bako on a day trip, there are plenty of choices in Kuching. The influx of backpackers has seen a mushrooming of budget inns. Upmarket choices include the Hilton Kuching, whose rooms have a great view over the Sarawak river. Accommodation in Bako National Park — You get to choose your accommodation in the park too! There are campsites, a hostel and lodges, ranging from RM5 ($2) to RM100 per night.

From TODAY, Traveller – Thursday, 21-May-2009

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