Unseen city Discover what the locals call the 'Mexican part of Cancun'
Cancun is a Mexican city with two faces. The side that most are familiar with caters to devil-may-care party-goers who fill the clubs by night and hang around the beaches and hotel poolsides by day.
Then there's another side of Cancun not tied in with the lavish beach hotels, the wild whipped-cream parties, or anything else related to the developed world. It is the side that allows travellers a sneak peek into the Mexican way of life, and that acts as a reminder of Mexico's rich Mayan history and culture. One only needs to venture out of the all-inclusive hotel zone to seek it out.
A week in and around the city will give most visitors a well-rounded Mexican experience - the Mayan ruins at Tulum and Chichen Itza, a taste of local village life at Isla Mujeres, and of course, a couple of days on the beaches at the hotel zone and the famous Playa del Carmen.
Starting out at the beaches is always a good idea. As our cab from the airport cruised into the hotel zone of this resort city, passing a long stretch of towering hotels, we entered what our cab driver called the "American part of Cancun", crowded with young people in flashy clothes out to have a good time.
A typical night out would often be followed by a lazy day on the b each. The hotel zone of Cancun, in the shape of the number "7", has a stretch of beach 20km long. If y ou're staying at a hotel there, chances are you would have quick access to a white sand beach and an awe-inspiring expanse of turquoise blue waters. Members of the public can also access the beaches from 10 entry points along the hotel zone.
The "Mexican part of Cancun", as the locals call it, hold for travellers many surprises as well. From Cancun's main bus station located downtown, we took two day-trips out of the crazy part of the city and into the real Mexico.
Chichen Itza, a World Wonder, marked our first destination outside of Cancun, home to a stunning complex of Mayan ruins from as far back as 600AD. The most prominent structure at the centre of this political, economic and religious site was the great temple El Castillo, a step pyramid built for the Mayan snake deity, Kulkulkan.
The Great Ball Court, too, was an intriguing piece of architecture - we were told by our tour guide that the Mayans engaged in a Mesoamerican ballgame much like today's volleyball, except the captain of the winning team would be sacrificed to the gods, a proud and willing candidate, demonstrated as the ablest of the lot and most deserving as a human gift.
Tulum offered us a second look into Mexico's rich Mayan history. Walking down a long asphalt road in more than 30°C heat, familiar angular stone structures soon emerged before us, shielded by the trees. Tulum used to be a commercial port for the Mayans around 1200AD, where local and foreign products like copper, textiles and ceramics from Central America and Central Mexico were redistributed.
Our walk around the seemingly arid and desert-like Mayan complex, with its expanses of drying grass and sparse palms, culminated unexpectedly in a spectacular view of the vast Caribbean Sea, a stunning shade of clear blue that extended from below the precarious cliff on which Tulum proudly stood.
To experience the local village life, we spent one day exploring Isla Mujeres, an island just a 15-minute ferry ride from Cancun. This island, despite the souvenir stores peppered along its main streets, presented us with a more "kampung" feel. Its modest jetty had wooden boats parked on its side and, closer to the beach, were attap huts with straw roofs, sitting behind rows of palm trees. Its main streets had low buildings with cracking paint, on top of which stretched a messy ensemble of electric cables, very reminiscent of Singapore in the 1950s. For US$30 ($41), we had the option of renting a golf cart to explore the island for a day, a popular mode of transport for tourists there.
In many ways, a trip to Cancun can be so much more than a partying extravaganza. Experiencing both sides of this travel destination will give you the best it has to offer.
Trip notes
Budget: The two sides of Cancun are reflected in the prices as well. At night out in the "American side" costs US$50 ($69), and a typical main course at a restaurant along the hotel zone costs about US$10 to US$20. On the "Mexican side", beyond the hotel district to downtown Cancun, you can get a good Mexican dish of meat, rice and beans for less than US$2.
Getting Around: Buses are the best way to get around Cancun and to attractions outside of it. Within the 20km long hotel zone, a shuttle bus ride costs about US$0.60. Travelling out of Cancun to places like Chichen Itza and Tulum will cost about US$6 if you ride with the local buses from the main bus station downtown. To get to the islands like Isla Mujeres about 15 minutes from Cancun, ferry services are available at the Gran Puerto Cancun Terminal for about US$3 for a one-way trip.
Taken from TODAY, Travel - Thursday, 22-April-2010;Cancun: The Unseen City
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