City of Flight

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TOULOUSE

Home of French aviation enchants in all colours

Shamir Osman, shamir@mediacorp.com.sg

Take a second and picture a city that was the home of aviation pioneers of old, the modern world's second biggest space centre and a hub of Europe's aeronautics.

Toulouse turns shades of pink at sunset.

That image that you have in your head does not come close to the enchanting reality of Toulouse.

In Toulouse you can travel to outer space, go back to the middle ages, gaze at the pinnacle of rugby's elite, and have a cuppa near the bank of the Garonne River as the setting sun turns the world a captivating shade of pink.

It is hard not to be seduced.

Skyward bound

Much of Toulouse's modern history is intertwined with the aeronautic industry that began in the 1920's with Pierre-Georges Latécoère's Aéropostale that utilised former war planes to send mail from Toulouse to Dakar.

From then Toulouse moved into civil aviation which saw the production of the Caravelle, the first French medium-haul jet aircraft in 1955, and then the supersonic passenger airliner, the Concorde, followed in 1969.

The city is now home to Airbus, who along with Boeing, is one of the two largest civil aircraft manufacturers in the world. Its crown jewel, the giant A380, is the new queen of the skies.

Dawn from the A380

Located on the outskirts of the city centre, Airbus' Jean-Luc Lagardère site is heaven for plane-watchers and even offers tours for aerospace buffs.

There's more. In Toulouse you can view artefacts that have actually made that long trip into outer space, and see just how good an astronaut you would make at a range of interactive exhibits at the 3.5ha Cite de l'espace.

The space theme park comes complete with gravity defying space toilets and full-scale models of the Ariane 5 and the Mir Space Station, and is not just for space buffs.

But Toulouse's biggest aerospace icon is perhaps aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.

If that name sounds familiar, it is because Saint-Exupéry's image adorned the French 50-franc note before the introduction of the euro.

He also wrote and illustrated The Little Prince (Le Petit Prince). The novel is his most famous, having been translated into more than 180 languages.

The aviator's marriage of aviation and literature was perhaps a sign of things to come.

Modern Toulouse has achieved a unique blend of hard science and refined culture.

Pink-bricked brilliance

Wandering down cobbled streets lined with pink-bricked buildings, it is easy to see why 83 per cent of Toulousians in the mid-1990s voted in favour of spending city funds on culture.

Busker on the streets of Toulouse

And it is hard to imagine that much has changed today. Some even take things into their own hands.

The Hôtel d'Assézat houses the Bemberg Foundation, the personal art collection of Georges Bemberg featuring works from the Renaissance to the French modern school.

While the city's better art collection is kept at the Musée des Augustins, just a stone's throw away, the hotel's balcony offers a stunning view that might be worth the trip.

But it is the town hall - the Place du Capitole - that captures the magnificence of Toulouse's pink-bricked construction.

Covering two hectares, the town hall overlooks a big square lined on three sides by trendy cafes and shops frequented by the 120,000 students from the three local universities, who give the city its verve, energy and bohemian way of life.

It is the youth who fuel the vibrant cultural life and entertainment scene of Toulouse, and from poetry readings to river-side buskers, you can be sure there is always something to see in La Ville Rose, the Pink City.

Toulouse's other colours

The region is famous for woad, an herb from the mustard family that yields a blue dye called pastel. Pastel made the city rich in the 16th century, and while the demand has severely diminished, you cannot miss the numerous shops around the city selling everything in a range of blue shades, from scarves to soap.

From pink to blue, the pastel-coloured theme is strong in Toulouse, with the violet flower its other distinctive produce. Candied violet petals dropped into a flute of champagne is a favourite with locals. If that is not your cup of tea, you could order some violet liqueur.

The city's football side - Toulouse FC - pays homage to the colours of the city with a violet home kit, and some pink trimming in the away attire.

Toulouse is, of course, more famous for its rugby team that wears red and black, Stade Toulousain, three time-winner of Europe's prestigious Heineken Cup, and 17-time French champions.

Cassoulet Toulousain, a dish famed throughout France, comes to your table in unappetising brown, but do not be fooled. Half a duck and several sausages hiding in a bucket load of beans and rich gravy may not sound appetising, but neither does a slab of goose liver served with garlic jam. A single serving of cassoulet looks big enough to feed several people, and it does.

A post-dinner stroll along the banks of the Garonne is a great way to close the Toulouse day, and sitting alongside reclining Toulousians whispering to each other, watching the setting sun wash the city pink, it is hard to imagine why they call Paris the romantic city.

This trip was made possible by Singapore Airlines, Airbus and Maison de la France.

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NOTES FROM AN AIRBUS PLANT, TOULOUSE

An international effort: Airplane components are manufactured in plants around the world. The cockpit and fly-by-wire system are made in France, fuselage in Germany, the wings in the UK, and the tail in Spain. The parts are then shipped to Toulouse, Hamburg or Tianjin where they are assembled into planes.

Trial by flying: Every completed aircraft is put through at least two test flights before it is delivered to the airline, ready to fly.

Producing jumbo jets: The 500m assembly building in Toulouse has eight rigs where workers and machines can easily reach any part of the aircraft. The A380 plant can churn out, at full capacity, 4 aircraft per month. At end April, the plant has 200 orders from 16 airlines. Singapore Airlines has 6 of them.

Green machines: The A380 will go down well with green travellers. It is built mostly with composite materials that make the aircraft lighter. On top of that, its double-decker design allows more passengers to be seated per flight. The aircraft has the lowest fuel burn per seat in the market, using 20 per cent less fuel on each flight.

Amusement plus: The in-flight entertainment system on the A380 comes with a bigger screen, USB ports that allow you to listen to your own music and watch your own movies, and a power outlet so your laptop does not run out of juice.

From TODAY, Traveller – Thursday, 09-Jul-2009

Paris’ hue and rues

FRANCE

Singing nuns, happy artists, encounters with the dead – it’s hard not to love the City of Lights

Neo Chai Chin, chaichin@mediacorp.com.sg

Sacre-Coeur Basilica at Montmartre has volunteers to restrain overzealous photographers.

“Are you looking for Jim Morrison?” a well-meaning stranger with a wool beanie and snazzy red-rimmed spectacles asked, after seeing me walk circles around the grave of Morrison — legendary lead singer of The Doors — without actually spotting it.

The setting was Paris’ Pere Lachaise cemetery, final resting place of Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Chopin and other luminaries. I had set my heart on traipsing its cobbled paths on a cold winter’s day in January and, thanks to the chance meeting with Olivier at Morrison’s grave, what a day it turned out to be.

An expert of sorts on Pere Lachaise, Olivier told me tales of the dead for the next three hours. He visits often; the place attracts him the way a great script draws an actor.

Statue at a dance school

On many visitors’ must-do lists: Smooching Wilde’s grave (though oils from lipstick are said to have corrosive effects), paying homage to Morrison (whose grave is now fenced up to prevent die-hard fans from damaging the surrounding graves), and rubbing the groin of assassinated 19th century writer Victor Noir’s bronze statue for luck in love. Noir became a romantic figure after he was killed in a duel in 1870, supposedly the day before his wedding — countless women hoping to get pregnant have laid their hands on the bulge in the statue’s trousers. I wasn’t one of them.

Paris is one of the most visited cities in the world, and places like the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Montmartre and the Notre-Dame Cathedral loom large. You could spend weeks in the Louvre, which houses a gargantuan collection of paintings and other artworks up to the 19th century, including the Mona Lisa. But its size and crowds can prove tiring. The Musee d’Orsay and Pompidou Centre are great for Impressionist and contemporary art lovers.

An exhibit by Israeli furniture designer Ron Arad at the Pompidou Centre

The Notre-Dame Cathedral was another attraction that fascinated and frustrated. Its Gothic arches and gargoyles were as impressive in real life as in pictures, but be prepared for camera-toting hordes relentlessly snapping away even during a sermon — at the priest, no less. Montmartre’s Sacre-Coeur (Sacred Heart) Basilica was much lovelier, in my opinion. For starters, volunteers tut-tut at those taking photos. The nuns sing during services, and to hear their glorious voices filling the cavernous interior verges on the surreal.

Paris is also a city where the little things matter — exploring lesser-known neighbourhoods like cafe-lined St Germain, watching a street performance, or just basking in the artistic, liberal vibe of the city.

No one is ever going to become a member of the Gulf Stream jetset doing this... but who cares?

— Davy Lim (above), who’s born in Penang, on being an artist in Paris

We met street portraitist Davy Lim at Montmartre’s artists’ square, or Place du Tertre. Penang-born Lim’s eyes lit up when he heard our accent and, meeting two people from this part of the world, he couldn’t resist talking about food. It was the eve of Chinese New Year, and he told us how good a bowl of “tau you bak” (stewed pork) would taste after a chilly day sketching outdoors.

Unlike some of the other artists, Lim isn’t at the square every day. And when it rains, he shrugs and packs up for the day. “I’m a free man, y’know,” he said.

What’s it like being a street artist in Paris? “I love my work,” he said. “I don’t have a boss, my hours are flexible, the remuneration is adequate. No one is ever going to become a member of the Gulf Stream jetset doing this, but who cares?”

If ever you need a dose of reality in the City of Lights, or proof that workers are well aware of their rights, labour strikes — a regular occurrence in Europe — are it. A strike was brewing the entire week we were in Paris, and it happened on the day of our departure. Supportive though he was of the workers, our landlord Nicolas (who had rented us his apartment) was apologetic as he advised us to book a private shuttle to the airport.

Perhaps, the test of a much-hyped and romanticized destination is the ability to enchant, warts and all. I hadn’t expected the city to be as charming as on film (Before Sunset, Paris Je T’aime, the list goes on), but it was. And if you’re lucky, you’ll also return with tales of encounters with lovely strangers.

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PARIS NOTES

Accommodation: If you’ll be in Paris for a week, try renting an apartment. Rental websites include www.parissweethome.com and www.parisattitude.com — the former is ideal for those on a budget, while the latter offers posher, pricier choices.

Pere Lachaise cemetery:

Located in the eastern part of Paris, the nearest metro stations are the Pere Lachaise (Line 2, 3) and Philippe-Auguste (Line 2). Entry is free. The website www.pere-lachaise.com provides an interactive virtual tour complete with pictures.

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From TODAY, Traveller – Thursday, 16-April-2009