South Africa and Football

Beautiful game, colourful nation

Beyond the World Cup stadiums, South Africa offers a lot more action

by Kevin Soon
travel@mediacorp.com.sg

FOOTBALL fans heading down to the Rainbow Nation for the 2010 World Cup are in for an exciting time both in and out of the stadiums.

For the 19th edition of the beautiful game's most prestigious tournament is aptly being held in one of the most beautiful countries in the world.

From Polokwane in north-east Limpopo province to Cape Town in the Western Cape Province, each World Cup venue offers myriad world-class attractions.



Johannesburg/Pretoria

World Cup visitors will likely be spending some time in this area as three of the 10 stadiums hosting the matches are located in these two neighbouring cities.

Johannesburg, the largest city in South Africa, is famous for its suburban Soweto township - where Nobel Peace Prize winners Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu grew up.

A tour of this vibrant township, which contains most of Johannesburg's black population, is best done as part of an organised tour group. This is because although Soweto is by and large a safe place to visit, chances of getting lost in this sprawling, maze-like township are high.

A good way to meet the friendly locals here is to ask your guide to take you to a "shebeen" (drinking place) for a pint or two of the popular South African Castle Lager.

The capital city of Pretoria - also known as the Jacaranda City for its pretty jacaranda trees - has a peaceful charm unlike bustling Jo'burg.

A must-see here, especially for airplane aficionados, is the Air Force Museum located at the Zwartkop Air Force Base. The history of the South African Air Force is well captured in this fascinating museum in the form of old aircraft, uniforms, missiles, aeronautical displays and paintings.



Cape Town

The must-do thing here is to take the cable car to the top of iconic Table Mountain for a spectacular view of the city - with the Green Point stadium standing out like a gleaming white cocoon.

After the excitement on the field, head out for greener pastures - specifically the vineyards of Stellenbosch.

A two-hour drive from Cape Town, Stellenbosch is the most famous wine-growing region in the country.

The wineries are open to visitors for wine-tasting and cellar tours, and you can buy a very drinkable Cabernet Franc red wine from a well-known estate such as Eikendale for about 60 rand ($10.90).

If your favourite team won its match, you might want to celebrate at one of the happening city-centre bars such as Joburg (yes, it's in Cape Town, go figure) - where an attractive, young crowd gyrate to the latest hip-hop and R&B hits.



Durban

The busiest port in all of Africa is also a tourism centre due to the city's warm subtropical climate and gorgeous beaches.

Durban is famous for its Golden Mile - the wide stretch of golden sands, separated by various piers - which provides excellent opportunities for sun-worshippers and swimmers to enjoy the sunny climes and warm waters of the Indian Ocean year-round.

A key attraction on the Golden Mile is the uShaka Marine World - the fifth largest aquarium in the world boasting 32 tanks. The sea creatures found in the aquarium range from small sea horses to sharks and dolphins.

A highlight here is to dine at the Cargo Hold restaurant which contains the largest shark tank in the world. Yes, the experience of dining on succulent, fresh seafood while hammerhead and ragged-tooth sharks swim menacingly in front of you is unforgettable.



Port Elizabeth

Located at the end of the picturesque Garden Route along the Cape coast, Port Elizabeth is another of South Africa's major destinations for tourists.

It has many historical attractions, one of the most interesting being the Historic Donkin Heritage Trail, which allows visitors to follow in the footsteps of the 1820 British settlers on their journey of discovery and settlement. This 5km trail takes in 47 historical sites in the Old Hill area of the city centre.

The city is also known as the water sports capital of South Africa. Calm waters and fair breezes make good conditions for sailing, and the safe beaches allow swimming, surfing and body boarding. Scuba diving enthusiasts can see ship wrecks, coral reefs and multi-coloured fish in the warm waters with up to 30m visibility.



Rustenburg

The gem of this North West Province venue is undoubtedly the fabulously surreal Sun City, which lies in the centre of an ancient volcanic valley like a shimmering mirage under the African sun.

One of Africa's premier resort destinations, Sun City caters to all whims and fancies. Football punters will likely make a beeline for the vast entertainment centre which offers countless gaming tables, slot machines and floor shows.

Once the sun sets, the resort comes alive with shows and performances at its various entertainment and F&B outlets, including the 6,000-seat Super Bowl arena - which has hosted concerts by the likes of Frank Sinatra, Queen, Elton John and Rod Stewart, among others.



Bloemfontein

Bloemfontein - birthplace of J R R Tolkien, author of The Lord of the Rings - is the capital of the Free State Province.

This is a sleepy, quiet city, so you might want to visit Lesotho - a small country completely surrounded by South Africa and about two hours' drive from Bloemfontein.

Africa's highest pub can be found at Sani Top Chalet, located at the top of the Sani pass and popular with South African day-trippers. An overnight stay is a good idea if you're driving and have had a pint too many of the superb local Maluti beer, which costs a mere 15 rand a mug.



Nelspruit

It's animals, animals, animals here as this is the gateway to Kruger National Park - one of South Africa's top tourist attractions.

The park covers 20,000 sq km and borders Zimbabwe in the north and Mozambique in the east. Here you can see the best of African flora and fauna such as lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos, and buffalo - the "big five" of any safari park.

First time visitors may want to consider booking a guided bush drive. The tour costs around 170 rand with experienced rangers taking you in a 4x4 vehicle through the park and explaining the finer details of game spotting.

If you have the time, sign up for a guided night drive where park rangers take you to see nocturnal creatures such as lions, leopards and hyenas.



Polokwane

Considered the premier hunting destination in South Africa, this city provides access to nature and wildlife viewing opportunities for ecotourists.

There is something to satisfy every nature and wildlife fan. Birdwatchers will be flocking to the Polokwane Bird and Reptile Park, which is home to over 280 species of birds. The Polokwane Game Reserve contains wildlife, birdlife, and plants in an unspoiled bushveld environment.



TRIP NOTES

Getting there:

Johannesburg and Cape Town are the two main entry points into South Africa for international flights. Singapore Airlines offers the only direct flights to South Africa with a thrice-weekly service to Johannesburg and Cape Town. It currently has a two-to-go promotion to either city at around $1,400 (including taxes) per person.

Stay: In South Africa, there are plenty of atmospheric and decently-priced B&Bs and guesthouses run by friendly owners. They are knowledgeable and are happy to recommend restaurants for local cuisine and give directions to those who drive. A list of these boutique establishments can be found at www.southafrica.bnbbreaks.com.


From TODAY, Travel; source article below:
Beautiful game, colourful nation
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Essouira, Morocco: Natural beauty

Image via Wikipedia

Morocco is not a place that is often heard when travel destination or a vacation place is being discussed. perhaps, it is time for that to change.

Hopefully, this short article on Essouira, Morocco helps.

Read on...

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Natural beauty

Rustic and whitewashed, Essaouira is a breath of fresh air from the resort towns of Morocco

by Carol Pucci
traveller@mediacorp.com.sg

Maybe it was the kebabs smoking on sidewalk grills, or the layer of fog that coloured the afternoon sky a pale gray, but when I walked through a stone archway into the walled city of Essaouira, being in Morocco began to feel as mysterious and unfamiliar as I had hoped.

It was a feeling that had eluded me in better known Marrakech, where boutiques and luxury guesthouses are transforming the ancient medina into a chic resort town popular with European tourists.

Rougher around the edges but more authentic is Essaouira, a weathered and windy port city on the Atlantic coast, three hours by bus through the desert from Marrakech.

With its whitewashed ramparts and buildings set off by blue doors and shutters, Essaouira could be a seaside town in Greece or Brittany. Brittany probably makes more sense since it was a French architect who was hired by the sultan to lay out the town's 18th-century medina.

Beaches and cheap hotels lured hippies travelling the North African bohemian trail in the '60s. Now, stalls stocked with leather bags and carpets open early for day-trippers arriving on the morning buses from Marrakech. The rewards come to those who linger. Check into a guesthouse and wander the streets in the late afternoon, and Essaouira begins to feel less like a shopping mall and more like the small-town fishing village it once was.

At Cafe de France on the Place Moulay Hassan, European expatriates in shorts and Muslim men wearing knitted skull caps share tables on the terrace and talk over glasses of mint tea. Women in flowing robes walk arm in arm. The air smells of sea salt, spices and grilled fish.

Nearly every guidebook recommends a meal at one of the outdoor seafood restaurants near the docks. Icy displays of fresh crabs, oysters and sardines were tempting, but prices seemed steep, and the sales pitches too hard-sell. We wandered instead to the "fish souk", the fresh fish market that takes place each day inside the medina. Sardines are the speciality, grilled on the spot and served with olives, bread and salad for about US$4 ($5.60).

Dinner was at a little white-tablecloth restaurant called La Decouverte, where we found couscous with camel on the menu and a lentil salad sprinkled with oil from the argan nut trees that thrive in this part of Morocco.

The restaurant's owners, Frederique Thevenet and Edouard Pottier, also run Ecotourisme et Randonnee, an ecotourism company that specialises in walking tours in the desert countryside.

Olive trees grow here, but it's the hearty and heat-resistant argan tree that's most treasured. Unique to south-western Morocco, the trees produce a hard wood, called ironwood, used for fuel. The leaves provide food for goats that climb into the spiny branches. But the argan tree is most valued for its nuts, the oil of which is extracted by hand by women working in cooperatives.

Our tour began at a country market where villagers arrived by donkey. A snack of tea and bread dipped in oil fortified us for several kilometres of walking along flat, desert donkey paths. Eventually, we reached the Marijana Cooperative. There, we talked with women working assembly-line style, cracking argan nuts between two stones, removing the seeds, roasting and grinding them into a paste which they then squeeze to extract the oil.

Marketing the oil as a healthy source of vitamins, and antioxidants has been an economic boost for desert dwellers like Fadna Bella and her family, who hosted our group for lunch in their house surrounded by argan groves.

Fadna met us in her courtyard, and led us into a windowless room decorated with pillows and carpets. We sat cross-legged on the floor, sharing a tomato salad, chunks of bread and her homemade tagine, a traditional Moroccan stew made with potatoes, carrots and lamb.

When we finished, she passed around a bowl of pomegranates and glasses of mint tea. She smiled. We smiled. Our appetites make up for our lack of Arabic words to express what a treat it had been to experience authentic Moroccan hospitality. She knew no English or French, but it mattered little. When we left, she blew us a kiss goodbye. MCT

Trip notes

Essaouira is 117km west of Marrakech on Morocco's Atlantic coast.


Getting there: Supratours (www.supratours.ma) runs comfortable, air-conditioned buses between Marrakech and Essaouira several times a day. The trip takes about three hours, including a stop for tea. Tickets are 65 dirham ($11). Buses leave from Supratours' offices near Marrakech's new train station.


Lodging/tours:

Essaouira has many nice hotels and guesthouses in restored riads, traditional Moroccan homes built around an interior courtyard. Prices are less than in Marrakech and usually include breakfast. See www.tripadvisor.com for riads that rate highly with guests who have stayed there. Many riads are owned by French, Spanish or Italian expatriates.


Ecotourisme et Randonnee (www.essaouira-randonnees.com) offers half- and full-day walks through the argan woods, nearby dunes and villages. Prices range from 200 to 400 dirham per person, including transport and a snack or lunch.


More information: visit www.visitmorocco.com

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Taken from TODAY, Travel - Thursday, 15-April-2010;
Source article is here: TODAYonline | Travel | Natural beauty
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SOUTHER PORTUGAL: Ambling through the Algarve

Southern Portugal offers an abundance of sunshine, storks, and ... human skulls

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by Mark Malby
traveller@mediacorp.com.sg

Even from the airport at Faro, the Algarve region of Portugal's south unfolds like a visual poem, sitting at the base of the Iberian Peninsula as complete and austere as a Hemingway short story. Imagine a pastoral land of rolling hills, olive and orange groves, quiet coastlines and ancient towns - and that's the Algarve.

The blue-green waters of the mid-Atlantic nuzzle its shores. Africa, incidentally, is just a stone's throw away, and the clear waters between them teem with seafood. Long beaches stretch, nearly empty in winter, and the region is backwater enough to have missed the unsightly building boom (and subsequent bust) that characterised southern Spain during the last decade.

The Algarve, in short, has plenty of space to sit back with a glass of wine, or retreat into nature.


A region steeped in history

A short walk through Faro's Old Town makes you quickly aware that this is a timeworn place, full of picturesque churches and narrow, cobblestone streets that would challenge even a mid-sized Mercedes. Visitors have been coming here since before Plato's time.

The Phoenicians built their trading outposts around 1000BC, followed by waves of Carthaginians, Romans, Moors, until it joined the Kingdom of Portugal in the 13th century.

Most of the buildings standing today, however, date from the 1750s, following an earthquake that ransacked the region. Still, it's picturesque and romantic, and pleasant to lose yourself for hours in the winding streets.

Never mind that the ground floors of some venerable buildings now house Mango, Zara, or McDonald's.

One of the more startling elements of Faro's religious past is Capela dos Ossos, which literally means "Chapel of Bones". This sits behind the venerable Igreja do Carmo church in the central town. It's not easy to find, but the price of admission - ?1 ($1.90) per soul - more than covers the effort.

Standing in the twilight of that room, layered wall-to-ceiling with human bones and skulls, it's hard not to feel solemn.

Apparently, it was built with the remains of more that 1,200 monks from the church's cemetery. And yet, there's a gruesome beauty to its symmetry as well. Not without reason does the inscription above the wall translate as "Stop here and think of the fate that will befall you."


Desert Islands and bird-life galore

Another selling point of the Algarve is its proximity to nature, though in Faro you don't have to wade into the wilderness to find it.

Nature comes right to your doorstep, or at least to the local roof-top. Massive stork nests crown the top of every church, lamp post, and tiled rooftop. It's like something straight from a child's story-book.

Nesting storks are just the precursor to what you find on the wetlands of Ria Formosa just south of town. In winter, these tidal flats which swathe the coastline all the way to Spain become a haven for migratory birds. Many come to escape the cold of northern Europe and Asia, while others fly north from Africa, attracted by the rich marine life and safe nesting grounds.

Similarly, bird-watchers make their way to Faro to spot scarce or first-time species. Birds are "big business" here, from vast flocks of African flamingoes and egrets, to exotic white spoonbills and shorebirds.

Many boating companies will take you through the wetlands, though Animaris offers the best package. For ?20, you'll get a three-hour guided boat trip through the wetlands, and the option of an afternoon stroll on the dunes and scrublands of Ilha Deserta - an uninhabited island which also contains the southernmost point of Portugal.


Eating and drinking under the Algarve sun

In most major cities, Portuguese restaurants tend to get eclipsed by the sexier nuances of French, Italian, or Spanish fare. That's a pity, because it's a hearty, piquant cuisine - specialising in seafood. In the Algarve, most is caught in the clear local waters. Roasted sardines and monkfish are specialities, and don't miss the bacalhau - salted codfish usually mixed with cabbage, potatoes, and olive oil. The region is also known for its sheep cheese, its olives, and those inimitable, crispy bread-rolls.

Then there's the wine. Port wines (named for Portugal, of course) are a must-try. Ports tend to be sweet and heady, designed to be sipped as an after-dinner drink. For something lighter with your meal, try the Vinho Verde (literally "green wine") from the north of Portugal, or rosé wines in their distinctive round bottles.

For escaping workaday life or the chill of winter, there are few better remedies than southern Portugal. Sitting out under the warm Algarve sun, dining al fresco in some ancient city square and washing down your meal with sweet Portuguese rosé wine - it's just what the doctor ordered.


From TODAY, Travel - Thursday, 25-March-2010; find the source article here.
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Girls on the move

Two travel authors dish the dirt on what it's like being a woman in a man's game

Christopher Toh

christophertoh@mediacorp.com.sg

WHILE many can probably easily name male authors who write travel literature - anyone from Michael Palin to Nicholas Sparks - few can name as many female writers who do the same thing.

One possible reason is the common - and often erroneous - perception is that men who strap on back packs and travel the world are bound on a journey of enrichment and discovery, whereas women who do the same thing are bound for trouble.

However, two female authors are hoping that perception will change with the publication of their debut travel tomes. Today took time out to chat with Adeline Loh and Janet Hsieh.

BUSH BABY: ADELINE LOH

Malaysian writer Adeline Loh ditched her career in magazine publishing a couple of years ago to take a trip to Zambia. Her first tome, Peeing In The Bush, is a recollection of highlights of the journey, which turned out to be a journey of self-discovery.
"I seriously never imagined that I would ever write a book because I possess a very short attention span," she told Today.

"I have trouble finishing books as it is let alone write one! But I was just so truly inspired by what I had seen and experienced that I just had to let it out one way or another."

According to Adeline, the book took "forever" to complete because she "transformed into this anal perfectionist".

"I needed every single page to be immensely readable, funny and engaging, so I would continually try to come up with new ideas and entertaining ways to relay information. I did not know when to stop," she said.

Two-and-a-half years later, she finally stopped writing and sent the manuscript to the publishers, although she kept wanting to work on it right up to the last minute. "It's like getting ready for a big date, you know? Every touch-up counts!"

You don't hear much about female travel writers. Do you wish there were more?

Actually, there are quite a number of female travelogue writers - they're just not as famous as the men. That's a low-down dirty shame because I think us females are much more funny, clever, wicked and adept at toilet humour than men!

What I wish is not for more female travelogue writers, but for more recognition for the existing ones. I don't think I'm setting the trend here; it's already begun.

Are you worried the public won't get it?

I know that the cool people I was writing for will get my book and those who have trees up their behinds may pooh-pooh it.

What's the biggest lesson you've gained from this experience?

I learnt to be appreciative of everything I have. Simple things - like food, money and shelter.

I hardly complain anymore and have become extremely easy to please. I also realised that the quest for materialism makes people miserable. The people in Africa had only the bare basics and they were contented, so why aren't we?

However, I also discovered burnout. I'm happy I did everything I did. Because I sure as hell ain't going to do it again!

What? No more books?

If I do write another book, I would want it to be 10 times better than Peeing In The Bush. And frankly speaking, that book is pretty hard to beat!

BITTEN BY THE TRAVEL BUG: JANET HSIEH

Better known as the vivacious host of Discovery Travel & Living's Fun Taiwan, Janet Hsieh has been to more countries than the entire Plus team put together.

Born and raised in Texas, the Taiwanese lass has visited over 30 countries, including Peru, Ecuador, Argentina, France, Palau, India, Singapore and, of course, Taiwan. She says she was bitten by the travel bug as a girl, and she's about to reveal all in her first travel tome to be published later this year.

It's not just a travelogue, she said. "It's like a biography told in a series of travel stories ... Whenever I go anywhere, I write in my journal. Of course, now I have my blog. I've always liked sharing stuff," Hsieh said. "Even the simplest things like the first time I used a squatting toilet, I didn't know which way to face. So it kind of made sense that I would put it in a book."

But first, she needs a title. "We do have a couple of ideas," she said. "One of them is Janet Revealed. But we're debating about what kind of cover to use."

Said cover ideas included one of her wearing nothing but a map, and a more familiar one of her carrying a back pack. (Personally, I'd go for the one with the map.) "We'll see how it goes," she said.

What was the most challenging about writing this book?

I've been writing it for a long time - two years -but sporadically, because I'd be busy filming for six months at a stretch sometimes. That was challenging. I didn't use a ghostwriter because I wanted it to be me. Everything down to the photos and themes and the style. The book is chronological, but location-based, and about what happens to me there ... But if you're looking for factual information like when to go, how to get there - then my book is not the book to buy!

Are you worried about the reception to your book?

I am a little worried because this is like my baby and I'm almost afraid to release it - what if people don't like it?

Any plans for another one?

We're already working on the second one, which is about my last four years on Fun Taiwan. It's based on the people we have interviewed on the show and not just the Taiwanese.

You don't hear much about women travel writers. Do you wish there were more?

Well, Beyonce had an all-woman band (at F1 Rocks). That is so cool! When you think "hard rocker", you automatically think "male". But it doesn't have to be that way. There are a lot of talented women out there, and I think Beyonce brought that point across.

I was reading an article which said that the people who are going to bring the world out of the recession aren't the Indians or Chinese - it's women. So why not? There should be more female travel writers!

The new season of Fun Taiwan with Janet Hsieh (left) begins Nov 27, 8pm on Discovery Travel & Living (StarHub Channel 16).

From TODAY, Plus – Tuesday, 29-Sep-2009

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Quick tours

Image via Wikipedia

Need a break? Pick up these travel packages at the Natas fair and get away.

He Peiwen

1 South Africa

Take a trip to the wild side with this 10D/7N tour that takes you to Cape Town and Johannesburg.

Highlights include a visit to Hermanus, a world-famous whale-watching spot; a tour of Cape Peninsula, where you get to see the Twelve Apostles mountain range, colonies of Cape fur seals and African penguins, and visit the Cape Point lighthouse; as well as a stay at Sun City, South Africa's premier resort, where you will visit The Lost City and Pilanesberg National Park.

Culinary delights include ostrich and game meat, sliced abalone and lobster meals. To book, head to Five Stars at Hall 4, booth 4H64.

A'Famosa Resort Water World Theme Park

2 Malaysia

For a family holiday close to home but with plenty to offer, check out the A'Famosa Resort 3D2N Family Paradise Package ($178 per adult and $141 per child).

Located in Alor Gajah (a 45-minute drive from Kuala Lumpur International Airport), the resort offers an international championship 27-hole golf course, an Animal World Safari, an adrenaline-packed Water World Theme Park and more.

3 Korea and Jeju Island

Here's your chance to see those sights shown in Korean drama serials such as Daejanggeum.

The 8D tour is available during both autumn and winter. Visit the Daejanggeum Theme Park; Yongduam Rock (Dragon Head Rock), the famous landmark of Jeju Island; the Teddy Bear Museum; and you even get to go on a submarine tour to the ocean floor.

In Seoul, try your hand at making kimchi, take photos dressed in a hanbok (traditional Korean dress) and satisfy your shopping urges at Dongdaemun Market, Korea's largest wholesale and retail clothing market. To book, head to ASA at Hall 5, booth 5H21.

4 Sydney and Melbourne

Choose a 6D Melbourne or 8D Melbourne and Sydney package for the best of nature and city holidaying. At Phillip Island in Melbourne, delight in the famous penguin parade, where you'll see hordes of fairy penguins waddle up from the ocean to their sand dunes.

Take a trip to a vineyard or choose an optional tour of the Great Ocean Road before shopping your fill at Victoria Market and Harbour Town Outlet Shopping Centre.

Those headed to Sydney will get a taste of the freshest sea produce at Sydney Fish Market and also visit places of interest including the award-winning Sydney Aquarium, Blue Mountains and the Three Sisters rock formation. Book with ASA at Hall 5, booth 5H21.

5 Japan

UOB Travel is offering exclusive deals to Japan on All Nippon Airways (ANA). Return all-in airfare to Tokyo is $488 plus 500 UOB incentive points; to Sapporo, it is $788 plus 500 UOB incentive points.

For on-your-own packages, which include return airfare and accommodation, prices start from $888 (before taxes) for 4D3N to Tokyo and $1,138 (before taxes) to Sapporo. Those who prefer group tours have the option of a 7D5N package to Central Japan and Takayama from $2,398 (before taxes). UOB Travel is at Hall 5, booth 5H11.

Club Med Kani

6 Club Med

Until Aug 31, book a Club Med holiday in Bali, Bintan Island, Cherating Beach, Kani (Maldives) or Phuket, and a second person stays for free.

Included in the package are activities such as horse riding, archery and water sports. The promotion starts from $944 per couple, for minimum four nights' stay. It is valid for travel between Oct 1 and April 30 next year.

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From TODAY, Living – Weekend, 29/30-Aug-2009

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Holiday with apes

A trip to Africa is a holiday of a lifetime for most travellers, but for marketing executive Rina Yazid, 29, and her husband, it was to learn about the Great Apes. The trip saw them volunteering their time at sanctuaries for gorillas and chimpanzees in Rwanda and Uganda. Today talks to Rina about her travels to east Africa and why she decided to spend her holiday last year caring for primates.

When did you become interested in volunteer tourism?

My husband and I have been working with charity organisations like The Christina Noble Children’s Foundation for a few years now. While these are extremely worthwhile causes, it is more interesting and engaging to spend time with the mountain gorillas and chimpanzees at The Jane Goodall Institute at Ngamba Island, Uganda, and The Dian Fossey Gorilla Foundation in Rwanda. We have been fascinated by primates — and Africa — all our lives.

Rina and her husband channeling Dian Fossey. PHOTOS: RINA YAZID

It also helps that (primatologists) Jane Goodall and Dian Fossey have been idols of ours since childhood. We have always wanted to get lost in the jungles of Africa and do something like these women.

What did your work at the sanctuary involve?

First — feeding the chimps. These guys eat all day long in the wild but in the sanctuary they have to be fed because the island (Ngamba) cannot sustain them. That means the caregivers have to prepare specific meals for them and they have to be fed four times a day. The morning feeding is the most fun because they are all so active and boisterous.

The sort of food they eat is carrots, mangoes, jack fruit, sweet potato and watermelon. These are cut and mixed in buckets and once the head keeper says we can start, we gradually throw the food out to the chimps, making sure we spread it out as fairly as possible. The big ones will have first go at the food, so we keep some of it back for the smaller ones and females.

After the feeding, we can either help clean the cages that the chimps spend the night in or help with the recording of daily activity notes. These are notes for caregivers to keep track of what is happening over time with the chimps.

The best “job” is taking a walk with the chimps into the jungle. You cannot help but feel at one with them. They come out of the cage and walk straight to the person they want to be with. It’s an amazing feeling to have a chimp pick you as their friend.

Once they have your hand, they climb on your back and you piggy back them through the jungle for an hour or so. Along the way, you will stop for a rest where the chimps will present their backs or arms or legs for you to clean for them; and while you may not be cleaning anything off them, it is a form of bonding and for them to get to know you better. After a while they may reciprocate and start cleaning the fictitious bugs from your clothes and the feeling is absolutely priceless.

Baby chimp at Ngamba Island sanctuary.

What are your impressions of Uganda and Rwanda?

Everyone thinks of Singapore as a clean country — Rwanda is clean, too! This is hands down the cleanest country we have ever been to. Truck drivers have their plastic bags confiscated as they cross the border. There is no rubbish anywhere — even in the drains of the capital city Kigali.

Rwanda now has a reputation in Africa as the least corrupt nation on the continent and it shows. The police are stern-faced but polite. The border guards are all stiff and unfriendly but not intimidating in any way.

There are reminders all over the country of the horror of the genocide but that was over 10 years ago and if you ask a Rwandan if they are Hutu or Tutsi, they will answer “I am Rwandan/Rwandese”. The war is over and they have moved on. It is a nation of forgiveness and this shows everywhere.

As for Uganda, I will admit that we did ask all the compulsory questions about safety and getting around. We were told there is nothing to worry about and kind of left it at that. At no point during the trip did I feel I was in any danger. The only guns we saw were with the park rangers and they were with us and held the guns for protection against what lurks in the jungles (wild animal attacks).

How did you book your trip?

We worked through a travel agency in South Africa called African Pride who concentrate on Southern Africa but partner with Wild Frontiers for central and east Africa.

The trip was 18 days and covers Rwanda and Uganda. The Africa package, including flights to Entebbe and all hotels, transfers, driver, food, tours, treks, park fees and just about everything else was about US$17,000 ($26,000) for two people.

We could have done it more cheaply had we not stayed in expensive lodges. What we got from this trip, though, were memories to last a lifetime and a passion and respect towards all primates that have got stronger ever since.

From TODAY, Traveller – Thursday, 21-May-2009

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