Paradise reborn

Revisit

SRI LANKA

With the end of a decades-old civil conflict, Sri Lanka's tourism industry is once again open for business

Mark Malby, traveller@newstoday.com.sg

It has all the hallmarks of a postcard cliché - great sweeping arcs of palm-fringed beach, breakers curling in from the green Indian Ocean, and beaches that are pristinely empty, except the odd outrigger canoe. Sri Lanka's south coast, at first glance, truly looks the travel agent's poster of paradise.

Never mind that the tsunami which swept through here in December 2004 decimated these shores. Or that hundreds of kilometres north a civil war has raged for the past 26 years, sharply dividing its Sinhalese and Tamil populations.

But with the formal end of that conflict in May this year and the prospect of a lasting peace ahead, Sri Lanka looks set to finally make its mark as the traveller's destination of choice.

One Island, Many Worlds

A visitor soon realises that this island nation is far more than the sum of its beaches. From the dust and cacophony of Colombo to the cool of the hill country, where tea plantations and small towns nestle in perpetual English spring, Sri Lanka is a land of contrasts.

People come to relax in its Ayurveda spas, to sample its spicy cuisine, to scuba-dive in its clear waters. Or they are drawn by the history - ancient, abandoned cities like Anuradhapura which dates from the 4th century BC. Those in search of wildlife revel in the vast nature preserves of the south-east, where safari-goers can spot elephants, leopards, buffalo and crocodiles in a landscape straight out of the Serengeti. Sri Lanka is not so much one country as it is many worlds, cobbled together in surprising combinations. It's hard to imagine any other place that's as diverse across such short distances.

Rebirth of a Tourist Hub

Much of its tourism was on-hold during the war years. With terrorist bombs in Colombo, unrest in various parts of the country, and fierce fighting in the north, Sri Lanka was a regular on the 'travel warning' blacklists of many consulates. That didn't stop the more adventurous tourists from venturing there - intrepid backpacker types, or those limiting themselves to the relatively calm south.

But with the conflict behind them now, Sri Lankans are gearing up for a brighter future, not just in the travel industry but in all areas of life. "People are extremely optimistic about the potential ahead and this is creating a vibrancy and 'can do' attitude that is infectious," says Mr Jerome Auvity, general manager of the Hilton, Colombo.

The Hilton has already noted an increase in booking enquiries, and like other travel-related industries, is hoping to spark new demand with promotional packing.

With much of the north and east now freed from conflict, there is clearly untapped potential waiting in the wings.

"Sri Lanka will be the place to watch out for in the coming years as it rightfully takes its place as a key travel destination in Asia," says Asif Ansar, a journalist. He cites previously untouched regions like the east coast or the country's north, with its rich marine life, as up-and-coming eco-tourism hotspots. "The end in fighting has opened up large tracts of jungle and beaches that were once inaccessible and unsafe to visit." It won't be long before the hotel developers and tourist touts realise the same.

Still, all signs are pointing to a bright future for a country which, even during a time of war, considered tourism a key source of revenue. "We are living in a 'golden period' in Sri Lankan history, I believe," says Mr Auvity, of the Hilton.

In Buddhism, the term "Jati" refers to the arising of a new entity - a rebirth, in essence. With lasting peace, we can fully expect Sri Lanka - particularly its relatively untapped north and east - to take a prominent spot in the pantheon of tourism.

Six Must-sees of Sri Lanka

Galle & the South Coast - colonial charm, great surfing, diving, sea-side hotels and palm-lined beaches.

Kandy & the Hill Country - tea plantations, scenic hikes, botanical gardens, Buddhist monuments, and a year-round spring climate.

Yala National Park - arid coastal plains bristling with wildlife: snap leopards, elephants, water buffalo, storks, crocodiles and langur monkeys on safari.

Ancient Cities - water gardens and sacred temples, 5th century fortress palaces, and Anuradhapura (abandoned in 1073) make up this 'cultural triangle'.

Kalpitiya - rich marine life, diving and whale-watching; take out a boat and be surrounded by hundreds of dolphins.

East Coast - off-limits during the war years, unspoiled beaches and thick jungles; see them before the hotels and tourist hordes arrive.

From TODAY, Traveller – Thursday, 25-Jun-2009

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