SPIRITUAL HOURS
With heritage sites and vibrant festivals, Tamil Nadu is a trip into southern culture
The world had a taste of what the Indian state of Tamil Nadu had to offer when Slumdog Millionaire composer A R Rahman walked off the Oscar stage in February with two gold statuettes.
One of Chennai’s most famous sons, the prolific musician and singer even performed his rousing, award-winning song Jai Ho for the Hollywood audience. Bollywood appeared in a posse of pink as Rahman made the Kodak Theatre his thumping ground.
That he’s a product of India’s song-and-dance culture is obvious. More than that, he hails from the capital of Tamil Nadu, a state known for its festive traditions.
Said Dr S Bakthavatchalam, the deputy director of department of tourism in Tamil Nadu: “In this land of fairs and festivals, every day is a celebration. Festivals are the high points of life where the spirit of worship is combined with joyous activity — song, dance and music – to unwind.”
The biggest festival of the year, the Pongal, takes place over four days in mid-January. It is the harvest festival of Tamil Nadu, when the Sun God is thanked and invoked for prosperity and a rich harvest.
The state has about 15 major festivals a year, says Dr Bakthavatchalam, adding that “the frescoes and the sprawling corridors in the cities of Chidambaram and Mamallapuram come alive during the classical and folk dance festivals every year”.
For shoppers, the Silk Festival in Kancheepuram in October is one of the major draws. The city situated 75km south of Chennai has “one of the finest textile traditions in the country”, according to Dr Bakthavatchalam.
“In Kancheepuram, silks are not simply woven, it’s an entire tradition, an art form. So much so that a trip to Tamil Nadu is considered incomplete without shopping for a Kancheepuram saree,” he said.
Lamps are the other signature product of the state, to be found in the towns of Swamimalai and Nachiarkoil. Here, visitors can see some of the most exquisite lamps crafted from brass or a combination of five metals.
“In Tamil Nadu, the art of brass and bronze casting is still strictly governed by the canons of iconography,” said Dr Bakthavatchalam.
Indeed, history and heritage distinguish the aesthetics of the southern state from those of the north. Where Mughal art and architecture — think the bulbs and towers of the Taj Mahal — dominate landmarks in the north, it’s ancient Dravidian designs that reign in Tamil Nadu.
Temples sport gopurams, or tiered, conical roofs that are meticulously carved and decorated to represent scenes from Hindu mythology. Think the lush depiction of images a la Little India’s Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple compared to the restrained, subtle art of the Taj Mahal.
Having escaped the Mughal influence that swept the north, the south is a fitting place to explore Hindu culture. One of the best examples is the group of monuments at Mamallapuram, a Unesco World Heritage Site situated 60km south of Chennai.
The village overlooking the Bay of Bengal served as the port city of the Pallava kings in the 5th to 9th century. Rock is the canvas here for artists to carve intricate depictions of Hindu stories.
Further south in the cities of Thanjavur, Gangaikondacholisvaram and Darasuram are the Great Living Chola Temples, world heritage sites built by the Chola kings in the 11th century. The monuments feature life-size sculptures and wall murals.
“For centuries, Tamil Nadu has been a centre of Dravidian art and culture,” said Dr Bakthavatchalam. “It’s waiting to be discovered.”
Jennifer Chen
From TODAY, Traveller
Thursday, 02-April-2009
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